Lin to Ohrid.

After having been soaked thtough on my Sunday outing, i was not looking forward to the same again. The forerecast was 35 mm of rain with heavy downpours. I got up to a freezing cold room and the sight of thick black clouds clinging to the hilltops around the lake. But no actual rain. I decided that if it wasn't  raining when i was ready to leave, i would walk, otherwise i would ask rosa to get a taxi for me.
I set out with my now favourite ne item of clothing, puffer jacket, plus raincoat over the top. It seemed frezzing as i stepped oyt, but as i walked along the shore, listening to the racous croaking of frogs, the sky started to clear. And by the time i was struggling up the steep, slick with mud track in the hills, i had become so hot that i stopped and derobed. The sky was mostly blue and it was sunny and warm. So much for the dire forecast.
It was another lovely walk through scrub and pasture, full of birdsong until i reached the border crossing. I think it's  the first time i have ever walked across a border where you get your passport checked.
It took five minutes and a mini interrogation on where i had been and where i was going and then i was walking off under the huge red and gold stsrburst flag of what is finally the republic of northern macedonia after labouring for years under the official acronym, fyrom. Finally their decades long dispute with greece was over, confirmed that day in the presidential election, where the candidate supprting the name change won. Just. 51% on 45% turnout isn't  really a ringing endorsment. And anyway, all the signs suggest it has happened and that's it. Many cars already have NMK on their number plates.
I was soon walking through a lovely piece of forest back to the lakeside again. It was delightful, sunny, warm, birdsong, flowers, ancient moss covered stone walls and views of the lake and snow capped mountains in the distance. Soon i was in the first northern macedonian village by the lake, where a sign pointed out the vestiges of the via egnatia. I assum it ran straight along the lakeside. I imagine that in future walkers might be able to take that route, if albania and northern macedonia get into the EU. Would save a lot of walking. I spotted the cave church in the cliffs above. Apparently it has some nice frescoes. I knew you needed to get a key but as it happened two old ladies were passing so i tried miming unlocking a door, pointing up at the church and they just pointed me up there, showing me the path. Maybe it is unlocked, i thought, but of course not. A steep climb for a detour to a locked door. But there was something to see, since there were frescoes on the outside of the church as well. Seems remarkable they're  still there, exposed to the elements  as they are.
Now the walking was just flat, along the shore on a little local road. Which eventually came to the gates of a monastery. I walked through it to continue on the path. No sign of any monks though. There was another cave church but another locked door. Finally, the forecast rain arrived but it turned out to be a passing shower. I had now turned off the road and was back on the remains of the via egnatia, right up against the water.  Around the shore, Struga was looming larger. There was a huge mosque approaching, bigger than any I'd  seen in Albania. Which seems odd given the minroty status of islsm here compared to Albania. In struga i also saw lots of women in hijabs, which I'd  not seen in Albania.
By now i was struggling. Not sure why, but my pack had been uncomfortable on my back today and my shoulders and back were complsining. So were my feet even though it was only a 22 km walk. Found a bank and got my new currency of macedonian dinars. About half as many to the euro. Another plastic note adopter, i noticed. Confusingly there are coin and note versions of some currency. It seems so alien to have to change money like this after being so used to the simplicity of the eurozone.
Cheap bakery lunch. 3 things for 1.50 aud. Cheap bus fare of 1.00 aud to go half an hour to ohrid. Yes, i cheated sgain and skipped a leg. It was almost entirely along a busy road. Found my accommodation and promptly confused exchange rates and paid twice as much as i should have. Luckily i realised my mistake, since i don't  think the guy was going to own up. He quoted the room in euros but i paid in dinars. Very cheap at 12 euros a night for an ensuite room.
I was ready for a nap and then out to meet tim for dinner. It has really added to the experience having a walking and dinner companion. If all of roman catholicism was like him the world would be a better place. Thoroughly decent, interesting guy. It is a shame that he will now be a day ahead of me. I am having a day of exploring Ohrid while he braves the 26 km walk through the forest to our next stop. Raced home in freezing cold. It is only hoing to be ten tomorrow. Thank god for the puffer jacket.

Pictures here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3hrhazdyFkojXoYa6

Walk details here:

https://www.mapmyhike.com/workout/3531754438