The royal tombs of king philip, Alexander the great's dad, and assorted other nobility are the raison d'etre of vergina. The main streets are lined with cafes, tavernas and souvenir shops, and the odd hotel. Almost no one, other thsn me, seems to stay here, or visit all the shops, but i guess it might be different in summer . Not that it's not busy here now. No sooner does one fleet of coaches depart than another lot arrive. Disappointingly, Sunday morning is not the quiet time i thought it might be for visiting. The place was heaving, but fortunately, apart from me, everyone was in a group, getting ushered swiftly from exhibit to exhibit. For much of the time i had things to myself. Happily, the attendants were too busy keeping their eyes on all these groups that i was able to sneak a few photos, to give an impression of the place.
The tombs were only found in the late 70s, under a tumulus in the village. There are four that have been incorporated into what is quite a unique museum. The tumulus, with exposed tombs has been closed in by a building which displays the artefacts found in the tombs. And there are some quite magnificent things to see. It is a macedonian equivalent to tutankhamen's tomb. Lots and lots of gold. The tombs themselves have surviving frescoes on the walls, but you're not allowed in to see them. Some of the workmanship is amazing. Such tiny pieces to have such fine detail. I also found the tombstones quite touching.
Overloaded on the gold of the sncients, i decided to head for the hills again, this time via the neighbouring village, where there was a little byzantine chapel that was incorporated into the wprld heritage listing. Shut for renovations, but there was a hole in the door to peek through. The pictures aren't great but they give an idea of its loveliness.
From here, i followed a dirt road upwards, alongside a small creek. Lots of green and serenity. Eventually the road turned to a footpath at the end of which was a delightful waterfall and two young greek guys who'd been having a picnic up there. Got offered some of their lunch and dome ouzo before we all walked back down together. George and anthony were also keen to know what i thought of the new name for northern Macedonia . They were vehemently opposed to it. As with the lady in the church yesterday, they called it skopje. They really are quite outraged at what they see as an appropriation of their heritage. Anthony asked if i was a vegan, which i thought odd, but it's because they work in an abattoir. They had firm views on the importsnce of meat in the diet. They have a heavy metal band, and told me to watch out for them on youtube, but that will be hard given they haven't got a band name yet. We parted ways the best of friends. On the way down george pointed out all the animal tracks. One was a wolf print. And they confirmed that it was a lynx I'd seen on Friday. Place is teeming with animals. A final dinner with victoria and her son. And another long conversation with him, also about northern Macedonia . No one so far, has a good word for its new name.
Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8bE26ZUa1N9rQUw78
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