Friday, May 17, 2019

Two days on mount olympos

The highest peak you can hike up on mount olympos is mitikas at just over 2900 metres. Unfortunately, i only got to 2100 metres. Once again, i forgot that mountains have snow on them. My excuse. There are no mountains with snow on them in Queensland. Anyway, i hiked from the road end at prionia, up to the refuge. Six kilometres, virtually all steeply uphill with lots of rock and log steps to go up, and the odd bit of gradual incline on soft ground to get a rest for sore feet. I walked under broken sunshine, with a nice warmth to the air till the last km or so when it turned chilly. The last km also a fair bit of snow across the track, but a path had been cleared and at one point, i passed the donkeys that bring up food and drink going the other way. The snow was nice and soft, so there was little danger of slipping and sliding to my death.
The refuge was excellent, run by a German woman, Maria, who had grown up on the mountain. There were photos of her and her family across the years, adorning the common room.  An interesting international mix of people stayed the night.  Costa rican couple who had paid a guide to come up with them, a very hard core looking german couple in their seventies who looked like no mountain would mess with them, a couple from somewhere slavic, missed where, who looked relative novices. The guy was wearing jeans to hike. A scottish woman, maureen, who had cycled round the world at fifty, and had continued being adventurous ever since, and a czech geography teacher. Lovely guy who knew more about Australian geography than most Australians. And finally, a group of four twenty-something germans who got in very late and got up very early, five o'clock, waking me up, only to sit around for two hours before setting off.
Most of us decided to head back down in the morning. Unfortunately there was thick cloud, rain imminent and the prospect of the snow on the track further up, being very icy. Seemed not worth the risk. Later my choice was shown to be wise when i bumped into the costa ricans. Even with a guide, they turned back, covered in snow. The guide tolf them it ws too dangerous  to continue.
The walk down was uneventful until prionia. There was a little shower but i made good time. I kept hoping for the sun the forecast had promised and headed into epineas gorge. 12 kms, mostly along the sides of the gorge with occasional drops down to cross the river and go up the other walls. It was so up and down, that despite going from 2100 metres to almost sea level, i actually made an overall altitude gain of 400 metres!
No sooner did i set out than it started to pour. Before long i was soaked through and not really enjoying it. But i did see lots of salamanders, which I'd  never seen before. Just sitting in the track. They were so glossily, brilliantly yellow and black. I was surprised at how slowly they moved off when i approached. And by their numbers.
Thought i would seek shelter from rain for a while at the ruins of a monastery but it was all fenced off,  it appeared, so kept on, dripping wet, until i reached the delightful cave church. Under a big overhang is this cute little church that looks like it's  been transported from mykonos. Whitewash and brilliant blue trim. It sits over a spring. A holy spring, in fact. I took the opportunity to change into dry clothes and waited out the rain for an hour. Only the rain didn't  stop. Set out again and was soon soaking wet again. I finally reached the mouth of the gorge, just as the sun came out. My knees and ankles were in agony. I think the rain exacerbated the arthritis i can be prone to.  I am not sure i have ever walked so far with my legs tensed to avoid slipping on wet rocks and tree roots. My walking poles saved me a couple of times.  I was disappointed not have reached one of the peaks, but pleased i had visited at least the outer halls of zeus's palace. Perhaps i will reach his throne another time.
By the time i found a place to stay, i was out on my feet. I was incredibly worn out. Certainly  a lot more than after the 33 kms i did over the mountains from ohrid to resen. Lay on the bed and fell asleep.

Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MB1S2WWSLmrRcJi97

Prionia to refuge A walk details:
https://www.mapmyhike.com/workout/3546792700

Refuge A to litochoro walk details:
https://www.mapmyhike.com/workout/3547013767

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