Another beautiful, cloudless sky to get up to. My chambre d'hote host had got breakfast ready and I sat down with him and his visiting friends. It turns out they are all from Peterborough, not far from Bulwick, where I lived until I was seven. My host even knew the place.
It was lovely walking weather when I set out, with just a touch of coolness to the air. After a km I was standing at the foot of the ruins of Quillan chateau. next to it are two intact prehistoric grain silos, carved into the bedrock. The information board also told me that the Romans had also occupied the site. During the Albigensian crusade against the Cathars, the crusade leader, Simon de Montfort had used it as a base. Once France extended its border to the Pyrenees, the place became redundant and fell into ruin.
The next close to an hour, involved a steady climb up onto a ridge with nice views of Quillan and the entrance to the gorge south of the town. the path continued along a well forested hillside before descending into a lovely little village where I crossed paths with another walker, heading in the opposite direction. She was from Toulouse and doing the whole walk. she was to be the only other walker I saw all day. By now the temperature had risen considerably and i was glad of the spring water gurgling out of the pipe in the village.
On I went through more forest, climbing steadily, passing a gorgeous chapel on the way. After a while the worst part of the day's walk began. About 2 kms along the bitumen road, with no shade and high temperatures. Finally, the road turned into a forestry trail and climbed again, running along the side of another hill, with views of Bugarach beginning to appear ahead of me.
Finally the path began a long and steep descent towards the village at the foot of the towering hill of Bugarach. By now I had done over 20 kms and was feeling the heat. At last, I emerged from the forest trail almost into the heart of the village.
I went straight into the little cafe I encountered desperate for a beer and something to eat. The place was packed and there was just the one guy doing all the cooking and serving. I guess he was the owner. Unfortunately, while sitting there, I could feel my heart beat suddenly becoming very fast and irregular. Had it not happened a few times before, I might have been more worried...
In any case, Bugarach is an interesting place, being a bit of a magnet for New Agey hippy types who are drawn to the alleged energy of the hill/mountain. Apparently in 2012 it attracted quite a crowd for the end of the world.
I had been contemplating walking on for another five kms to a waterfall where I thought I would be able to hang my hammock and spend the night, but with my heart hammering in my chest I thought I should find a room instead. Unfortunately the only two places were booked out, so I had to head to the gite d'etape 500 metres away, which in my current condition, was a struggle. I got there to find it doesn't open till five, so I thought I'd lie down on one of their numerous pieces of garden furniture and let my heart get back to normal. But it didn't. I had a shower, thinking the cold water might help, but no. I was starting to worry about how I was going to do three more days walking if this was going to happen. I had decided, with the help of google, that the combination of hot weather and excessive exertion were to blame, and it was due to get hotter over the next few days.
In a fit of sensible behaviour, I decided it might be best to not keep going. Only trouble was, how was I to get back to the car at Puivert? So I rang my host from this morning and he was happy to come and get me. I did pay him fifty euros, but it was almost three hours of his time and 100 kms of driving. On the way to Puivert, i learned he is a bit of a gun bike rider. He has been doing the sections of the tour de France that are about to come through, and apparently, he is the second fastest person to ride one particular hill section of fifteen kms.
I got home safe and sound and seemed fine this morning, but still think I did the right thing cutting the walk short. I will have to avoid the heat and try to slow down. I always seem to want to set a cracking pace and don't rest enough. Must try to slow down a bit!
Today I spent my time putting in a ceiling in half the kitchen. After a dodgy start, I was not too unhappy with the outcome.
It was lovely walking weather when I set out, with just a touch of coolness to the air. After a km I was standing at the foot of the ruins of Quillan chateau. next to it are two intact prehistoric grain silos, carved into the bedrock. The information board also told me that the Romans had also occupied the site. During the Albigensian crusade against the Cathars, the crusade leader, Simon de Montfort had used it as a base. Once France extended its border to the Pyrenees, the place became redundant and fell into ruin.
The next close to an hour, involved a steady climb up onto a ridge with nice views of Quillan and the entrance to the gorge south of the town. the path continued along a well forested hillside before descending into a lovely little village where I crossed paths with another walker, heading in the opposite direction. She was from Toulouse and doing the whole walk. she was to be the only other walker I saw all day. By now the temperature had risen considerably and i was glad of the spring water gurgling out of the pipe in the village.
On I went through more forest, climbing steadily, passing a gorgeous chapel on the way. After a while the worst part of the day's walk began. About 2 kms along the bitumen road, with no shade and high temperatures. Finally, the road turned into a forestry trail and climbed again, running along the side of another hill, with views of Bugarach beginning to appear ahead of me.
Finally the path began a long and steep descent towards the village at the foot of the towering hill of Bugarach. By now I had done over 20 kms and was feeling the heat. At last, I emerged from the forest trail almost into the heart of the village.
I went straight into the little cafe I encountered desperate for a beer and something to eat. The place was packed and there was just the one guy doing all the cooking and serving. I guess he was the owner. Unfortunately, while sitting there, I could feel my heart beat suddenly becoming very fast and irregular. Had it not happened a few times before, I might have been more worried...
In any case, Bugarach is an interesting place, being a bit of a magnet for New Agey hippy types who are drawn to the alleged energy of the hill/mountain. Apparently in 2012 it attracted quite a crowd for the end of the world.
I had been contemplating walking on for another five kms to a waterfall where I thought I would be able to hang my hammock and spend the night, but with my heart hammering in my chest I thought I should find a room instead. Unfortunately the only two places were booked out, so I had to head to the gite d'etape 500 metres away, which in my current condition, was a struggle. I got there to find it doesn't open till five, so I thought I'd lie down on one of their numerous pieces of garden furniture and let my heart get back to normal. But it didn't. I had a shower, thinking the cold water might help, but no. I was starting to worry about how I was going to do three more days walking if this was going to happen. I had decided, with the help of google, that the combination of hot weather and excessive exertion were to blame, and it was due to get hotter over the next few days.
In a fit of sensible behaviour, I decided it might be best to not keep going. Only trouble was, how was I to get back to the car at Puivert? So I rang my host from this morning and he was happy to come and get me. I did pay him fifty euros, but it was almost three hours of his time and 100 kms of driving. On the way to Puivert, i learned he is a bit of a gun bike rider. He has been doing the sections of the tour de France that are about to come through, and apparently, he is the second fastest person to ride one particular hill section of fifteen kms.
I got home safe and sound and seemed fine this morning, but still think I did the right thing cutting the walk short. I will have to avoid the heat and try to slow down. I always seem to want to set a cracking pace and don't rest enough. Must try to slow down a bit!
Today I spent my time putting in a ceiling in half the kitchen. After a dodgy start, I was not too unhappy with the outcome.
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